Jackson SLAT3-7 Mod Step 5: Restringing
Now that the pickups and electronics are back in, I’m itching to get back to playing! But calm down a moment and sober up cause we have to restring first.
Hello, I Love Charts fans!! This is Jeff Wysaski from Pleated-Jeans reporting for guest blogging duty. As an enthusiastic chartographer, I’m super honored to have several of my charts featured in the upcoming I Love Charts book.
Today, I’ll be sharing a few of my own charts (including the one above), as well as some new and classic ones from other talented chartists. Trust me, it’s going to be awesome. So, enough chit-chat…let’s do this!
Tips for playing and recording an extended-range guitar:
1: Turn the gain down! Heavier strings get muddy if you’ve got too much distortion going. Listen to the guitars on a Meshuggah record- it’s crazy how little gain they actually use, most of the “heaviness” is in the instrument itself and…
While this may not be explicitly relevant to guitar, music, or technology (or tumblr), it is still a testament to the importance of analog design in (electrical) engineering. I need to read further into this, but it seems like it will be very illuminating.
You never really understand the importance of video game music to the experience and the memory of the adventure until you listen back years later and remember yourself in the exact place in the fantastical worlds…
This is the full Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time soundtrack, 1+ hour! Become the hero, defeat evil, save the princess! Enjoy the adventure!
Now that the pickups and electronics are back in, I’m itching to get back to playing! But calm down a moment and sober up cause we have to restring first.
It’s good to be back posting regularly. Per the previous post, the next thing to do is wire up tho pickups and the electronics.
Here we go!
Alright, back at it.
I had originally planned to Dremel out the Jackson pickup routs for the mounting tabs of the BKP. This would require a steady hand and would be fairly obvious. I figured there was just too much room for error. Instead, I followed Marty Searing’s approach after all.
Let’s carry on…
I’ve taken a break, however unintentionally, from the Jackson modding process the last couple weeks due to a few health issues (got glasses and an episode of gout) and a busy schedule. I plan on updating either tomorrow or Thursday.
I can say I finally got around to cutting/grinding/filing the pickups so I haven’t been totally inactive. Thanks for your patience and I promise I’ll have content churning out again shortly.
(Source: ikilledjackjohnson)
Perhaps you’ve heard of Fair to Midland? I suggest you check them out! In particular, the throat singing/growling. It’s not screaming, so I don’t know what you call it. But it’s certainly impressive!
I felt bad that the previous post didn’t amount to much except pictures. I thought I’d go forward and provide another step. This is largely relying on the official installation video provided by Tremol-no. No reason to repeat what they already have shown, so I recommend you just watch the video.
There’s really not much to this. Seriously. And it confirms that there is not incompatibility with the 7-string version or the type of bridge (if using the pin type). Once you have everything ready, you should only take about half an hour to get this going, assuming you don’t need to much work done with the action/intonation. If you haven’t seen my last post about disassembly, please check it out.
I’ve also had some knee issues recently, so my posts may be sporadic this week as I find to get things done and/or manage the discomfort of sitting in certain chairs.
Alright, this is going to sound lame, but the mod isn’t actually happening (Hence not assigning this an actual step number.)
In the process of disassembling the bridge, I learned that the mounting screws for the sustain block of the 7-string Floyd do not align the same as the 6-string version. Needless to say, you CANNOT currently swap the sustain block with an aftermarket tungsten version. The brass block offered by Floyd Upgrades does come in a 7-string version which I will be researching.
I still wanted to provide something here for the very least that this is a learning experience and cautionary tale. The pics below should clarify the construction of the bridge a little bit and compare the two blocks.

Tungsten top, stock bottom:

[edit] The OFR-1000 series is the version installed on this guitar and it is NOT compatible, but supposedly it is on the other series. This is still a genuine Floyd Rose, but made in Korea. It is not the licensed version either. Unless I get a Schaller (made in Germany) version, I will have to live with the old zinc version. [/edit]
I’m hoping that the use of the Tremol-no will compensate somewhat for the inferior sustain. In hardtail mode, I don’t expect to be able to tell the difference.
A real step!!! YEAH! DOING STUFF!!! No, but seriously, I will finally present some pics and get things done instead of just musing on them. I have most of the goodies I need to get started. I have steadily been receiving parts—electronics, strings, Tremol-no, pickups, etc. This should be a nice change of pace from the previous, purely academic discussions and the pics should mostly speak for themselves, though there aren’t ones for every step because it was just not feasible. [Bear with me as I am not a studied photographer.]
Lots of the tricks I learned from observing the Floyd Upgrades videos and the Ultimate-Guitar forum setup threads. But I didn’t follow everything to the letter. Don’t know if my way is the best, but it seemed to more sense to me.
One last playtime before I move on. I was just playing unplugged in these photos, in case you’re wondering.

